No wartime garden would be complete without a compost heap to make use of the very few scraps and garden waste that was produced throughout the year. A lot of food waste was collected by the local council to feed farm animals such as pigs and poultry, but you would always save the meal leftovers for ourself the next day and waste as little as possible.

What was left would be put to good use on the compost heap producing a free supply of "fertilizer" for your year round crop.

The picture below shows how to make your compost heap 1940s style taken from a "Dig for Victory" leaflet.

Step 1:

The heap should be made in the shape shown in the sketch above, 4-7 ft. wide, 3-5 ft. high and of any convenient length according to the amount of material likely to be available; The turf and soil are removed from the site (preferably a spot shaded from the full heat of the sun) to a depth of one foot and retained on one side. Layers of materials are then put in as follows:-

First. A layer of vegetable refuse (the more mixed it is the better) about 4-6 in. thick.

Should it be dry and stemmy, moisten it (not more) and trample it well - the more broken it is, the better. If green and sappy, lay it loosely.

Second. A layer of animal manure (from horse, cow, pig or small livestock - best of all, mixed) 1/2-l in. thick;
or a sprinkling of one of the proprietary chemicals sold for this purpose by most horticultural dealers.

If animal manure has been used, a sprinkling of lime should be given after each 4-6 in. layer of refuse, but it is best not to apply the lime directly on the animal manure. A layer of refuse or soil should he left between the lime and the animal manure.

If one of the proprietary compost makers is used, this will probably contain sufficient lime.

Wood ashes or bonfire ashes may be used in place of lime, and any kind of liquid manure loay take the place of animal manure.

Third. A layer of soil 1/2-l in. thick. In summer or with dry materials, more should be used; in winter or with sappy stuff, less is necessary. If the soil is loose in texture, it should be more generously applied than soil of a stiff or sticky nature. If available, it will .be a great help if a little old oompost from an earlier heap is mixed with the soil.

These three basic layers should he repeated until the full height is reached, and the whole heap should then be eovered with a coating of soil 1/2-l in. thick. No other chemicals are needed, but wood or bonfire ashes, and any kind ol liquid manure may be added during the building of the heap.

In many gardens, sufficient material will probably not he available to make a complete heap at one operation, and the heap may be built gradually; but after about two veeks in summer, or six weeks in winter, it should he finished off, even if the prescribed height has not been reached, and a new one started.

Step 2:

In a few days according to the material and the weather conditions, the heap should generate heat; or at least become warm. If it does not, no harm is done, but it will he longer before the material is ready for use. A heap which has become very hot (hotter in the middle than can be borne by the bare hand) may be turned over after 3-6 veeks, when it has begun to cool down. A cool heap should be left 6-12 weeks before turning over. Turning over should he done from one end, mixing the layers, and the original outside of the heap should be thrown inside.

After a further period, which may vary from 3 weeks to 6 months, the whole heap should be uniformly dark in colour, with a pleasant earthy smell, and all the material completely rotted. It is then ready for use. A second or third turning will accelerate the completion of the process, but is not normally necessary.

This process is the first step to growing your own vegetables, now we will move on to your garden its soil and raised beds.